Logoless
Last week I was in a virtual closet with a client. We were conducting a spring closet edit. In this session, each item is examined — when and where it was worn last, what it was worn with, the fit and quality condition, and how it makes you feel.
We were moving along efficiently when she pulled out a Givenchy logo emblazoned t-shirt and flashed it on the Zoom screen. She asked if logo tees were "in or out." We paused. Though I don't necessarily approach fashion for an individual client as in or out, I do focus on modern wearability, realistic lifestyle context, and thoughtful consumption. Zeitgeist undoubtedly plays a role, consciously and subconsciously.
Her hesitation about this graphic tee shows a notable shift away from pronounced logos to a more "quiet luxury" approach to fashion. I've written about this — as did everyone else — recently, and it's one of those fashion moments making a mark. Or, really, erasing some.
“Quiet luxury is new-age minimalism with a larger focus on investment pieces and thoughtful shopping.”
-Harry Archer, Elle / Editorialist
I told her she might consider wearing it sparingly, if it's too garish for her taste. It's in good condition and fits her — so she relegated it to a workout top.
The consumer compulsion toward logos ebbs and flows, like all fashion cycles. Logomania resurged and regained traction in the late 2010s (inspired by the 90s — think Tommy, Polo, Fubu, and Gap) with the rise of streetwear and luxury product statements from Off-White, Balenciaga (before their campaign catastrophe), and most notably, Gucci under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele. The love for logos continued through the early days of the pandemic when cash was flowing into more of consumers' bank accounts, and brands and retailers were marketing reductions daily. An increase in first-time luxury buys occurred during this period, logo-ed and logo-less alike from mega brands.
But the lingua franca of fashion is starting to read more subtly. It will happen on a sliding scale. I don't see all logos disappearing. Instead, they'll appear smaller (brands be on notice), worn less often, more as a novelty, and in the right setting. We can thank the economy for this alteration of attention.
For another client recently, I did a spring/summer shoe shopping update. A pair of Gucci espadrilles were newly added to her wardrobe, with allover GG logos woven into the canvas. They're whimsy and light pink, making her happy when she wears them. That's the point. But when I sent her a dress with the GG intarsia motif, she responded that it was a little "too loud" for her. Respecting your personal style boundaries and comfort zones reigns above all else.
Though big, flashy logos are starting to trend downward right now, I wouldn't jump to offload them. For one, the price and value of these goods on the secondhand market are beginning to decline. If you're okay with that, then move it. But if you can tolerate the wait, move it to another place in your closet, stowed away for the future. Undoubtedly these pieces will recycle back to being in fashion like everything does.
And if you like a good logo moment, then fantastic! Own it.
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